South China to South England: Four Days on a Russian Railway

Evening two of our four day train journey saw eight people crowded into one small train compartment. We were all sharing three cups which were frequently filled with shots of Vodka and consumed with enthusiasm from the Russians and slightly faked enthusiasm from the British.

Nikki was talking to a minor sporting celebrity from Belarus, Jen was chatting in basic German to a Russian with basic German ability and I was talking to a Muslim man from Turkmenistan about the difficulties he experiences having five wives, fourteen children and six grandchildren. Communication was not easy for any of us, but we had a Russian phrasebook and plenty of time to make friends.

(From left to right, Muslim man with 40 children, guy from army, me, Nikki, Jen and minor Belarus sporting celebrity)

Day one of our four day train journey saw us crowded into another train compartment, this time filled with Russian students studying car mechanics. They were on their way back to university and incredibly curious about these strange three British people in the third class compartment of the train. Vodka was consumed and the phrasebook was used when sign language or basic English failed. Vodka always seemed to improve all of our linguistic skills so gradually the phrasebook would be picked up less and less. As the students left the train one lad who was also a boxer looked at Jen and asked "will you forget us?" which was quite sweet because they were our first trans-Siberian friends and would be very hard to forget.

(The car mechanic students)

In evening one of our journey Nikki and Jen took a nap. Nikki then woke up to find a Russian soldier sitting on the end of her bed, some tentative English was used and soon it seemed like the entire Russian military was crowded in the train compartment. Many of the lads were heading home after completing their one year mandatory period in the army and some others were continuing on to join the Special Forces. Everyone was excited and some unusual presents were handed out. Nikki got a Russian army issue vest and Jen got given an army issue belt. Beer and vodka was consumed and a complicated card game was explained.

(A few of the army guys)

Our last day on the train Nikki and Jen had mastered the card game and the compartment was filled with some familiar and some different faces. Most of the lads in the Army had left the train so now it seemed a little bit quiet. One old lady who was a school teacher sat next to Nikki offering her tips on her card game strategies and the promiscuous Muslim father of an entire village got grumpy when Nikki and Jen kept winning. Two gas van drivers were also in the compartment along with a man who Jen had met on her way to get hot water earlier in the day. Vodka was again consumed.

Throughout the trip there seemed to be a revolving door of curious Russians eager to make friends with us during our journey. At the end of one day I asked if Nikki had read any of her book and exasperated she replied "Ben, where would I have found the time!" Which was a very good point, and probably why the four day train journey seemed to be over so quickly.

We stepped of the train at around 5am Moscow time and waited for the underground train system to open. We found our hostel and all took our first shower in four days. We are just waiting for the sun to rise now so we can go and explore Moscow.