Being Polite

If a Russian offers to share vodka with you it is considered a massive offence if you do not accept. This is how I became very drunk in the back of a minibus.

The day started in -25 temperatures at 9am when Jen, Nikki and I left the hostel and climbed into the back of a minibus that would take us on a seven hour journey to Olkhon Island. This island is in lake Baikal which is the deepest lake in the world, the water is safe to drink and if the world was to run out of drinking water then Baikal could supply demand for the next 40 years.

It was just after lunch when the bus pulled over to the side of the road and picked up a passenger who was waiting in the snow. This man climbed in and placed a huge axe in the middle of the floor of the bus. He then climbed towards me on the back seat, sat down, turned to me and started talking in Russian. I smiled and shrugged and explained that I was English, he laughed and shook my hand then shouted something to the driver.

Our bus pulled over and my new Russian friend climbed out of the vehicle and walked unsteadily into a shop, returning a few minutes later with two small mandarin oranges, a bottle of sugary drink, a plastic cup and bottle of vodka. He sat down next to me and gestured to the vodka, I looked at him, looked at the big axe resting on the floor and decided it best not to cause offence.

We would drink a shot each and then either eat a segment of orange or drink some of the sugar drink he had also purchased. His hands holding the mandarin were filthy as was his clothes, which I guessed was related to his axe orientated occupation. I had wanted to drink vodka with a local on my trip and it seemed that they did not get much more local than the man sitting next to me. Whilst drinking I tried to not react too much to the taste of the vodka but I think I gave myself away when I would reach for the orange a little too quickly.

Our conversations were long and detailed but the only English word he knew was 'yes'. He would just talk in Russian for sometimes four or five minutes whilst pouring vodka and I would nod and repeat the Russian word for yes, which is 'Da'. I had our Russian phrasebook with me so Nikki introduced us all and I counted from one to six. I don't think counting to six is usual adult drinking conversation material but he seemed impressed.

It was when Jenny turned around in the seat in front that his attention shifted considerably. I will never be totally sure but from hand signals and gestures I think he had a son that he wanted Jenny to meet. I picked up the phrasebook and found the Russian for beautiful which is 'Kraseeva', and pointed to Jenny. 'Da, Kraseeva!', he exclaimed, then he would ramble on in Russian for another few minutes.

Our random conversations went something like this

Me: Jen would love to meet your son, how does that sound Jen?

Jen: Errr, no thanks

Me: She agrees, but for a price, 70,000 Rubles! Da?!

Russian: Da! (Insert long winded Russian rambling here)

Me: (to the Russian) I can't understand a word your saying but i'm going to smile and nod, Da?

Russian: Da!

The bottle of vodka was soon finished. I was drunk, the Russian was asleep on my shoulder and Jen never did meet his son.

(Our new Russian friend nearly falling backwards)

bx