Finnish Fisu

If you are drunk on a cruise ship between Finland and Sweden then things can become deceptive. The boat rocks backwards and forwards to the swells of the sea, so I blamed my lack of coordination on this rather than the bottle of vodka infused with three packets of Fishermans Friends mints that we were all drinking.

Three packets of mints diluted into one bottle of Vodka creates a Finnish drink called Fisu, it may sound nasty but it is actually very nice. We could also excuse our drinking as having a traditional Finnish cultural experience, which is always good.





(Me and the Fisu)






(On the boat, leaving Helsinki)

The ship was huge, clean and cheap, it is amazing but it would have been cheaper to make the overnight ferry ride between both countries every night than to stay in any hostels or hotels that either capital city offered. Below is what we should have done to save about 45 quid.

• Day in Helsinki - overnight cruise ship - day in Stockholm - overnight cruise ship - day in Helsinki (repeat as required)

Who would think that the cheapest way to explore a country is by leaving and returning to its borders everyday!

I woke up early on the boat despite my slight headache and went up to the top deck to watch the ship arrive in Stockholm. It was very cold and windy but watching the city start to get larger on the horizon was worth it. When we left the boat no one checked our passports, which seems to be standard practice when crossing borders in Europe. We walked twenty minutes to the local train station and then navigated our way by train and bus to our hotel.

(My first view of Sweden)

(Small streets of Stockholm)

Our time in Sweden was spent visiting the Royal Palace, gazing at the impressive display of crown jewels and wondering if they are as relaxed about securing their crowns as they are with border crossings. We ate lunch in an underground prison, explored the endless winding side streets of the old city area and walked miles and miles in an attempt to see everything Stockholm had to offer. Next stop. Denmark!

bx

Russia to Finland Border Crossing

We reached the border between Russia and Finland after only a few hours journey. Around two hours later almost everyone in the bus had gone through the Russian and Finland border process, but one woman in our vehicle had been detained.

There was a noticeable rise in tension within the bus. People looked at each other with nervous energy and the bus conductor would walk up the aisle and whisper to people, his eyes glancing around suspiciously. Soon the detained woman returned to the bus, being escorted by a Finnish customs officer in uniform. As the woman stepped onto the vehicle the noise level dropped and everyone watched in silence as she picked up her bags from her seat and was marched back across the border.

Once the woman had left, the bus was permitted to leave. The engine started and the tension suddenly burst. Amid a flurry of movement the bus conductor whipped out a big brown sack and worked his way up the aisle. Passengers everywhere began pulling out hidden bottles of vodka, packets of cigarettes and other smuggled items, depositing them in the sack as he shuffled past. Even a little old lady was in on the action, producing a bottle of vodka from her handbag. It would seem that our bus was more smuggling vessel than human transportation device, and our conductor was the Del Boy Trotter of the Russian to Finland border crossing.

When we arrived in Helsinki our experience was slightly surreal. We had been travelling overnight from 9.30pm to 5am so Jen, Nikki and I had not had much sleep. The bus suddenly pulled up to the side of the road, turned off its lights and everyone seemed to go to bed. Even Del Boy started to snore. We were not sure if we were in Helsinki, we were not sure why the bus had stopped and we were not sure how long we would have to wait. We failed to have any of these questions answered because we were all tired, we simply went to sleep slightly confused.

Two hours later the lights of the bus went on, everyone woke up and exited the vehicle. It turned out we were in Helsinki.

And Helsinki was great.

We checked into the hostel and headed straight into town. We found an old indoor market and started our Finland experience by tucking into some juicy Reindeer. I felt slightly strange eating Rudolf, and I felt bad that Santa will be going round in circles now that he is minus an engine, but it sure was tasty!

Later that night we went to see an ice hockey game, because that it what Finnish people do. The home team unfortunately lost the match, but the atmosphere was amazing.

The rest of our time in the city we explored the shops and side streets. Amazed to be somewhere that uses English in everyday life. We also booked our onward journey to Sweden, on a cruise ship, which should be fun!

I will be sad to leave Helsinki, it is certainly not the most exciting place in the world, it has awful weather and less than 6 hours of daylight. But the people were friendly and for our short visit we certainly enjoyed ourselves.

bx

(ps photos to be added soon when i sort out computer issues)

St Petersburg

Many guide books say that if St Petersburg is your first destination on a trip to Russia then you should not expect the rest of the country to be the same, and I have to agree.

If you like old, big and impressive buildings then St Petersburg is for you. It does not feel like Russia, it has an arty and creative vibe that Moscow and Irkutsk lacked. You can walk along winding canals and get lost in old palaces and Cathedrals where Tsars one roamed. It is a beautiful city with an incredible history and a place I imagine people must love. Personally though I have not fallen for the charm that St Peter has to offer, it has not made an impact on me in the same way that the rest of Russia has on my trip. Perhaps this is because it is more European in nature, or maybe because I have not drunk enough Vodka. I do know that if I visit one more Cathedral or museum I might throw myself from its highest spire or window...


(Canal with impressive Cathedral in the distance)


(A hermit in front of the Hermitage)


(The fortress that first prompted the building of St Petersburg and a ship that is in fact a posh health club on the left)

I leave for Finland tonight!

bx

Moscow

I never imagined that I would happily organise my day around going to see a dead body. Death and tourism is quite a strange mix, but when you are in Moscow you have to go and visit the mausoleum of Lenin, so this is what we did on our first full day. Lenin never wanted to be covered in wax and preserved for eternity, Stalin decided it should happen, and you never disagree with a man who could send you to a labour camp as quickly as he could shake your hand.

The mausoleum is situated near the center of Red Square, which is overlooked by the incredible Kremlin, St Basils Cathedral and the History Museum. You file into the giant stone tomb and walk down into the darkened depths beneath the square, turn the corner and see Lenin face up in a glass box. You walk quickly past the dead leader, prompted by guards to keep moving and suddenly the bizarre experience is over and you are back in Red Square. It was a strange start to the day.

After seeing Lenin we visited the history museum and then St Basils Cathedral. The Cathedral looks like it has been constructed by a a cake maker using colourful icing whilst under the influence of drugs. Many photographs were taken.









(That is one big brass monkey...)


(Broke the bell in the Kremlin)

People warned me about crime rates and corrupt police officers in Moscow but my experience was totally positive. Every time I turned a corner I was faced with a gigantic and impressive church or Soviet era building that forces me to get my camera out and take a photo. We walked into the Kremlin and looked round the extensive armoury which was full of diamonds and weapons, and weapons covered in diamonds. We also visited the Moscow State circus on ice, which was entertaining and something I recall my dad telling me about when I was younger. In the main lobby they had a bear, a camel, baby tiger and a cheetah!


(Churches everywhere)


(Lenin lives here!)

From Russia with love...
bx

PS. If anyone wants to see Lenin in a box then click here.

Four Days on a Russian Railway

Evening two of our four day train journey saw eight people crowded into one small train compartment. We were all sharing three cups which were frequently filled with shots of Vodka and consumed with enthusiasm from the Russians and slightly faked enthusiasm from the British.

Nikki was talking to a minor sporting celebrity from Belarus, Jen was chatting in basic German to a Russian with basic German ability and I was talking to a Muslim man from Turkmenistan about the difficulties he experiences having five wives, fourteen children and six grandchildren. Communication was not easy for any of us, but we had a Russian phrasebook and plenty of time to make friends.


(From left to right, Muslim man with 40 children, guy from army, me, Nikki, Jen and minor Belarus sporting celebrity)

Day one of our four day train journey saw us crowded into another train compartment, this time filled with Russian students studying car mechanics. They were on their way back to university and incredibly curious about these strange three British people in the third class compartment of the train. Vodka was consumed and the phrasebook was used when sign language or basic English failed. Vodka always seemed to improve all of our linguistic skills so gradually the phrasebook would be picked up less and less. As the students left the train one lad who was also a boxer looked at Jen and asked "will you forget us?" which was quite sweet because they were our first trans-Siberian friends and would be very hard to forget.


(The car mechanic students)

In evening one of our journey Nikki and Jen took a nap. Nikki then woke up to find a Russian soldier sitting on the end of her bed, some tentative English was used and soon it seemed like the entire Russian military was crowded in the train compartment. Many of the lads were heading home after completing their one year mandatory period in the army and some others were continuing on to join the Special Forces. Everyone was excited and some unusual presents were handed out. Nikki got a Russian army issue vest and Jen got given an army issue belt. Beer and vodka was consumed and a complicated card game was explained.


(A few of the army guys)

Our last day on the train Nikki and Jen had mastered the card game and the compartment was filled with some familiar and some different faces. Most of the lads in the Army had left the train so now it seemed a little bit quiet. One old lady who was a school teacher sat next to Nikki offering her tips on her card game strategies and the promiscuous Muslim father of an entire village got grumpy when Nikki and Jen kept winning. Two gas van drivers were also in the compartment along with a man who Jen had met on her way to get hot water earlier in the day. Vodka was again consumed.

Throughout the trip there seemed to be a revolving door of curious Russians eager to make friends with us during our journey. At the end of one day I asked if Nikki had read any of her book and exasperated she replied "Ben, where would I have found the time!" Which was a very good point, and probably why the four day train journey seemed to be over so quickly.

We stepped of the train at around 5am Moscow time and waited for the underground train system to open. We found our hostel and all took our first shower in four days. We are just waiting for the sun to rise now so we can go and explore Moscow.


(Our train that would take us to Moscow)


(Jen is presented with a Russian army issue belt)



(Nikki pretends to be happy that I am taking a photo)



(Action shot, Nikki confused with phrasebook)


(The view from my top bed down the open dorm style carriage that was our home for 4 days)

bx

Olkhon Island

So currently I am on a train. I boarded the train on th 14th and I will arrive on the 18th November in Moscow. I am not writing this post on the train though, I wrote it before we boarded and found a clever device to publish it halfway through my journey automatically.

I have realised this blog has been a bit wordy lately so below are some pictures of Olkhon Island in Lake Baikal. To see it on a map then click here. We stayed in a wooden house with a warm fire stove and ate lots of tasty freshwater fish. We had a few saunas and also went on an adventure round the island.

Also thought I should update on our route. We are going Moscow - St Petersburg - Finland - Sweden - Denmark - Germany which is a slightly different route than plowing through eastern Europe.











bx

Being Polite

If a Russian offers to share vodka with you it is considered a massive offence if you do not accept. This is how I became very drunk in the back of a minibus.

The day started in -25 temperatures at 9am when Jen, Nikki and I left the hostel and climbed into the back of a minibus that would take us on a seven hour journey to Olkhon Island. This island is in lake Baikal which is the deepest lake in the world, the water is safe to drink and if the world was to run out of drinking water then Baikal could supply demand for the next 40 years.

It was just after lunch when the bus pulled over to the side of the road and picked up a passenger who was waiting in the snow. This man climbed in and placed a huge axe in the middle of the floor of the bus. He then climbed towards me on the back seat, sat down, turned to me and started talking in Russian. I smiled and shrugged and explained that I was English, he laughed and shook my hand then shouted something to the driver.

Our bus pulled over and my new Russian friend climbed out of the vehicle and walked unsteadily into a shop, returning a few minutes later with two small mandarin oranges, a bottle of sugary drink, a plastic cup and bottle of vodka. He sat down next to me and gestured to the vodka, I looked at him, looked at the big axe resting on the floor and decided it best not to cause offence.

We would drink a shot each and then either eat a segment of orange or drink some of the sugar drink he had also purchased. His hands holding the mandarin were filthy as was his clothes, which I guessed was related to his axe orientated occupation. I had wanted to drink vodka with a local on my trip and it seemed that they did not get much more local than the man sitting next to me. Whilst drinking I tried to not react too much to the taste of the vodka but I think I gave myself away when I would reach for the orange a little too quickly.

Our conversations were long and detailed but the only English word he knew was 'yes'. He would just talk in Russian for sometimes four or five minutes whilst pouring vodka and I would nod and repeat the Russian word for yes, which is 'Da'. I had our Russian phrasebook with me so Nikki introduced us all and I counted from one to six. I don't think counting to six is usual adult drinking conversation material but he seemed impressed.

It was when Jenny turned around in the seat in front that his attention shifted considerably. I will never be totally sure but from hand signals and gestures I think he had a son that he wanted Jenny to meet. I picked up the phrasebook and found the Russian for beautiful which is 'Kraseeva', and pointed to Jenny. 'Da, Kraseeva!', he exclaimed, then he would ramble on in Russian for another few minutes.

Our random conversations went something like this

Me: Jen would love to meet your son, how does that sound Jen?

Jen: Errr, no thanks

Me: She agrees, but for a price, 70,000 Rubles! Da?!

Russian: Da! (Insert long winded Russian rambling here)

Me: (to the Russian) I can't understand a word your saying but i'm going to smile and nod, Da?

Russian: Da!

The bottle of vodka was soon finished. I was drunk, the Russian was asleep on my shoulder and Jen never did meet his son.

(Our new Russian friend nearly falling backwards)

bx

Mongolia to Russia

We left Mongolia with a sick Jen, she ate some baaaaad Mongolian sheep and it had made her really ill. The train would take two nights and one day so we had plenty of food to keep us going for the trip, not that Jen could really look at it without turning green.

The journey was generally quite smooth till we reached the Russian border. The process I am just about to describe took eight hours.

We first had to leave Mongolia and go through their customs procedure, fill out forms and have our cabin searched. After this we journeyed through no mans land for five minutes and then arrived at the Russian border. Within this five minute journey the people changed from Asian themed to Caucasian themed. A tall blonde woman with blue eyes came asking for our passports, pale skinned customs officials scowled at us and a fierce looking attack dog paced around the platform outside. An amazing eight hours later the train departed and we were officially permitted to enter Russia. It's almost like the country is not keen on visitors...

The next morning after a fantastic nights sleep we arrived in Irkutsk. If you want to see where Irkutsk is on a map then you can click here.

I know I keep on mentioning the cold weather, but it was -21 when we stepped off the train which left us almost in shock after the nice warm train journey. We got a tram from the station to the hostel and then had many cups of hot tea once we got settled. Later that day we explored Irkutsk and also purchased our tickets to Moscow! We are leaving on the 14th of November and arriving on the 18th. What could be better that four days on a train? Well we are going third class, which means we are basically travelling like cattle.


(Jen wrapped up on a train to Mongolia)

bx

Mongolia part 2

The adventure started one week ago at 8.30am. Nikki, Jen and I packed our bags, left the hostel and climbed into the back of an ancient Russian tin can bus. We were joined by two guys from Finland and our Mongolian driver called Norra. Our driver could speak a few words of English but what he lacked in linguistic skills he more than made up for in facial expressions and character.


(The new Mongolian pop group)

We all sat in the back of the bus chatting and getting to know each other on the way out of the city. Norra soon took the bus offroad and onto a rocky dirt track that stretched into the distance. Things did not go smoothly at first, the rattling bus stopped before a small frozen stream and we could see Norra weighing up his options. He eventually made a decision, shifted into first gear and roared into the ice with confidence ... only for us all to get shunted forward and the bus get stuck nose downwards in broken ice and water. One of the Finnish guys laughed and said it was like being on the Titanic. We all jumped from the bus and took pictures of our predicament in typical tourist style whilst Norra went to get help to tow us out of the ditch.


(A great start to the trip)

Throughout the journey the bus would break down, get flat tyres and occasionally not start. We were told to expect this though and Norra would always stop the vehicle, climb out and disappear with his tool bag to fix the problem. Sometimes it felt like we were not on a bus at all but instead on a ship in a storm. The bus would hit snowdrifts and swerve from one side of the track to the other, it would smash into big bumps or rocks that left everyone bouncing out of their seat and sometimes turn corners that made us feel like the bus would tip onto its side. If we hit an especially large rock or bump Norra would turn to us all concerned, then laugh when he saw that we were laughing in the surprise and shock of the moment.


(Nikki and Jen walked into my sunset shot)

The cold weather took my breath away on more than a few occasions. The bus would hit a snowstorm and suddenly it would feel like the vehicle was a small speck on a massive sheet of white paper, you could not tell the sky from the ground and it felt really disorientating. Other times we would be blasting through yellow sandy desert with sun and blue sky above us, only to jump out and forget it is -10 and rush back in for a coat.


(Norra in a snow race)

Every day we would speed through landscapes that changed constantly and every afternoon arrive at a Ger and stay with a Mongolian nomadic family. If you want to see what a Ger is then click here for some pictures. A Ger is the most popular house for the nomadic Mongolians because it is easy to dismantle and move around. It also has the added benefit of being the right shape to have a fire stove blasting inside it. We stayed in some Gers that were pretty basic, with holes in the door and beds with more lumps than the desert outside. We also stayed in some pretty nice Gers that had extra insulation and comfortable beds. One thing that all the Gers had in common though is the lack of heating during the night, the stove fire in the middle of the Ger would be kept going with horse dung, sheep dung and wood during daylight and early evening, but once you were in bed the fire would go out and you would get gradually colder. I woke up every night with numb ears or nose because I had stuck my head out of the sleeping bag during my sleep. Needing to use the bathroom in the early hours of the morning was the ultimate torture moment, I would have to creep out into the cold desert and pee in the freezing snow and wind, frequently with camels, horses or sheep nearby watching me with curiosity.


(One of our many Gers)

Mongolia is like no place I have ever been to before. I can't draw any comparisons or similarities to any previous experience so I will let photographs do the talking for the rest of this post. The problem is I am having issues uploading photographs online at the moment in Mongolia. I leave tonight for a 36 hour train to Russia and will get to a computer then and promise to upload pictures as quickly as I can.







(This was the best toilet of the entire trip, the rest were holes in the dirt)


(Me and my camel after a trip round the sand dunes)

bx